Kabul, Afghanistan
OCT 27, 2004

Okay, so I'm here. In Afghanistan, Kabul to be exact. I arrived early in the day last Friday. I believe the date was 10.22. It was a long trip and a well worth adventure in and of itself.

Those of you who came to The Half King on Tuesday 10.19, thank you; it really meant a lot. I hope that you understand how hard it was for me not to spend more time with each of you. My plan is to make up for it upon my return sometime in January back at the The Half King.

You should know that until the last minutes, I was contemplating why I would leave a city I love, a friend and business partner that I adored enough to marry, amazing employees and creatives Matt and AJ who are kind enough to let me direct them, friends sweet enough to try and talk me out of going, family supportive enough to bite their tongues rather than question me, sophisticated and really fun TT3 clients, and TT3 itself, my baby (until I have a real one) that's still young but destined to be seen as the one that broke the mold and set new standards for brand, product, and content creation. I know, I know. You've never heard me say things like this. You still won't hear it, but being far away makes it easy to come clean--at least in e-mail. When you're going on an extended trip for the first time and you're already 30 something, things cross your mind in heavy ways and every decision seems a bit more loaded than it would have just a few years prior.

Loaded or not, I never questioned my belief in Aïna, the organization I represent in the US and was coming here to work for. And I never questioned Reza, it's founder, my friend and mentor whose expertise on Afghanistan and the region, world view, and love of humanity are mind-boggling and inspiring to me.

I did question how effective I may be on a humanitarian mission as a creative director. But that went away quickly. After all, what other type of humanitarian mission should I go on, if not one that involves photography, film, journalism, storytelling, design and rebuilding culture in a neglected but vital part of the world? Here we have an NGO attempting bravely to rebuild the intangibles that most people don't even think about. The mental confidence and pride of a nation by reviving their culture and giving them the means to express themselves and evolve with the rest of the world. How Afghans see themselves and their practical and informal educational needs can't be taken for granted. What happens during the years between now and when the schools and roads are re-built? Shouldn't we use the power of technology and media to connect Afghans with the rest of the world, us, now? The answer is obvious, no? It's a resounding yes.

Initially, I wanted to come for a short visit and see how everything worked on the ground so that I could be a better representative in the US and really begin raising funds, support, and awareness for Aïna. As it turned out they also need me on the ground.

I was asked to stay for at least 3 months and help in establishing a communication agency within Aïna that would produce multi-media campaigns starting with one focused on Disarmament and Reintegration. My experience seemed to fit the bill and Reza asked me directly. How could I say no? Well, I couldn't. The agency/division is called Darya, a name chosen with participation of Afghans which means the sea or small ocean. As I told a friend before I left, I like to think even the landlocked dream of swimming away--perhaps in this case away towards a better future.

Now, in terms of practicalities. To see what the bombs have done to Kabul is devastating. The people are strangely beautiful as many of you have seen in pictures. And Dari is not as close to Farsi and I would like it to be. Although I have to admit that I'm getting better at Dari already. I work and live in a compound type building with a square patch of grass and some rose bushes around it. Not quite a garden but a lovely garden none the less. This place used to be the home of an Afghan dignitary then was rented by a rich German and then abandoned and used by the Taliban as an interrogation area. There is a wall where reportedly executions took place. There are bullet holes all over and it's a bit sad to walk by. The place is still owned and rented from the last king of Afghanistan who is alive and well with his family in Europe. Each of Aïna's divisions, publications, or projects has an office here and then there is a communal dining/meeting room and kitchen. Upstairs an addition has been built and there are 5 rooms for expats like me. Currently, 7 people including me and other volunteers from US, India, France, Italy, and Spain share a big bathroom with 2 showers that never seem clean enough and don't always have running water. There are 2 other guest houses for expats but I'm told this is the best one. Plus, I get to be close to the action.

Recently our photojournalism students and the video production unit had their cameras ready to cover the Chicken Street incident and I watched the back and forth and effort of the students and trainers in reporting accurately and quickly. This would be impossible anywhere else.

Back to practicalities, I'm happy but generally speaking my living and working conditions suck here. Internet access is painfully slow and I'm cold every night and sleep on a thin mat on a dusty floor that a lovely young woman actually believes she cleans everyday. The mat is too short for me and my feet hang off in an uncomfortable way. The security is a bit big-brotherish; we sign in and out and go through 2 gates each time. 2 guards supposedly sit on the roof as lookouts at any given time. One has a box on the roof in direct view from my window but frankly, he looks more like he's playing video games than keeping watch. Basically, we are as safe as we can be here and short of the air pollution hurting us should we go for a walk or leave the window down accidentally when driving somewhere, all is well on that front.

I didn't intend to write so much and I'm sorry to have both taken so long to write, and to have taken up so much of your time. But rest assured, this is it, until I get back. Internet access is painfully slow and I don't have a regular office. And after all I've got a whole communication agency to structure here, creative women to mentor, shoots to supervise, and a creative strategy to devise to help convince several thousand unofficial soldiers to disarm and reintegrate. Oi Vey!

One more thing, Aïna's film department, specifically the women's film group made a film in 2004 called Afghanistan Unveiled. It will be airing on Nov 16 on PBS. Watch it, and you'll understand even more some of what brought me here. Also, enjoy the little known fact, that the women you will learn about in the film are here with me, need our help, and consider me one of their own. I accompanied them on their very first commercial shoot and will be working with them to hone their storytelling skills, especially in short format. They are, in a word, amazing, brave, funny, eager to learn, independent, and make my days go by really fast. Now if I could just learn to deal with the nights!!!

Enough then, take care of each other, and Harris for me until I return,